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Irish Crochet thread-what size to use?

May 22, 2023 by Forgotten Cotton

Size 100 crochet thread and size 0.35mm crochet hook and size 0.4mm crochet hook

The Irish Crochet Thread used in the lace belonging to the County Cork Industrial Association Irish Lace Collection appears to be of a much finer quality than I have ever seen used in the more modern crochet pieces that I have come across. I could say “in the interest of research”, but really it was more out of curiosity, that I rang around a few different suppliers requesting their smallest crochet threads and hooks. A supplier in England, https://www.roseground.com/ appeared to be the only place I could find what was officially called a no. 100 crochet thread. (For anyone new to this, apparently the smaller the number describing the thread, the thicker the thread.) This may have been because the thread that arrived, which was a no. 100 thread, appears to be similar in size to standard sewing thread but with a mercerized finish so maybe I was asking the wrong question all along and should have referred to a sewing thread size. The crochet hooks that I received were size 0.35mm and 0.4mm and the lady on the phone said these were the smallest size she stocked. I was surprised at how fine they were, as they were similar to a fine sewing thread needle but with a hook on the end. If these were the size crochet hooks used, it would explain the similarity to needlepoint lace with the hooked end just making the work slightly faster and easier. However the fine point was not very strong as, after taking the above photo, I dropped the 0.35mm size and the fall of only 18inches to the floor bent the top part of the needle. This makes me wonder if the 0.35mm hook would not have been sturdy enough. The amount of work carried out making the lace would have been substantial and difficult so maybe they would have used the .4mm size and upwards. However, I can say for sure that the tightness of the stitching and fineness of the thread does indicate a finer needle though than is generally used now.

Very fine crochet thread dating back to c 1913

Very fine crochet thread found in the 1913 Lace Collection from the County Cork Industrial Association

To compare with the thread in the collection, some of which appeared to be left over from the workers and had been wrapped around some card, the main difference appeared to be the mercerized finish on the more recently made thread. Other than that, the modern thread size was similar to that used in the various crochet pieces from the collection and that which was on the card. For anyone who wants to try to replicate the pieces, perhaps start with just some ordinary sewing thread to see if you can replicate the fineness and complexity of the 1913 workers. I know I definitely would not have the patience but when I see the finished lace used in garments such as designer wedding dresses http://www.olwenbourke.com, it does make them so much more special. I hope you have enjoyed my journey of matching the past with the present in the world of Irish lace.

How is Irish Lace made?

May 11, 2021 by Forgotten Cotton

Many people may be familiar with the names of the Laces of Ireland but wonder how they differ. Traditional Irish Lace can be grouped into three main types of lace making; crochet lace, needlepoint lace and mixed lace.

Irish Crochet Lace

Irish Crochet Lace Cuff c.1913

Traditional Irish crochet lace makers used a very fine thread and a very fine crochet hook. First, a pattern was drawn for the item to be made. An Irish crochet pattern could contain many different flower motifs such as rose motifs or sunflower motifs, which would be combined with a variety of leaf motifs. Individual motifs were pinned to the paper pattern and then joined up with ground stitches. A few different kinds of ground stitches were used, depending on the complexity required by the pattern. [Read more…]

A Small History of Irish Lace

April 6, 2021 by Forgotten Cotton

Example of detailed design in Limerick Lace

Design detail in Limerick Lace c.1913

Lace making in the 18th century in Ireland appears to have been very much a local affair. The Dublin Society (now called the Royal Dublin Society) was formed in 1731 to promote agriculture and industry in Ireland with lace making as one of the industries being encouraged. However, it was in the 19th century that lace making, as an industrial art, became a noteworthy trade. With the exception of Limerick Lace, which was a private commercial venture started in 1829, most of the well known Irish laces were developed with a view to alleviating poverty after the devastation of the Great Famines of 1845 to 1847. Lace items produced varied from simple lace handkerchiefs to elaborate wedding dresses in Irish lace and wedding veils for the Royal families of Europe.

[Read more…]

Irish Crochet Lace, its’ motifs, designs and patterns

April 5, 2021 by Forgotten Cotton

Irish Crochet Lace motif — Irish Crochet Rose Square Motif c.1913

Irish Crochet Lace Patterns

Irish Crochet lace differed from the continental forms in the way it was designed. Crochet is based around the concept of the simple chain stitch but Irish Crochet lace makers developed their own variations of this stitch, designing intricate lace motifs such as the Irish Crochet Rose Square motif in the photograph. Patterns were then designed on paper for the layout of these crochet motifs. The completed crochet motifs were then pinned into place and joined with a variety of filling stiches. Sometimes smaller motifs were joined together in strips to make lace trim which was then sold by the yard. Irish lace was normally white or cream in colour. [Read more…]

Limerick Lace, a traditional lace of Ireland

April 4, 2021 by Forgotten Cotton

The first of the large scale making of Irish Handmade Lace began with Limerick Lace. Items made included lace for dresses and bridal veils as well as smaller accessories such as lace gloves, lace collars and lace trimmed hankerchiefs. In 1829, Charles Walker, an Englishman married to the daughter of a lace manufacturer, came to Limerick to set up a lace making factory. The availability of inexpensive labour, who were already skilled in sewing, were part of the attraction for him. He brought 24 trained staff with him to help develop his business. Other factories soon opened and by the 1840’s the making of Limerick Lace had also been introduced into convents and similar institutions. [Read more…]

Carrickmacross Lace, an Irish designer lace

April 2, 2021 by Forgotten Cotton

Carrickmacross Lace is one of the most famous of the laces of Ireland. It has been the Irish lace of choice for top designers for wedding dresses and wedding veils. It originated from an adaptation of applique needlework brought back from Italy by Mrs Porter, the wife of Reverend John Grey Porter, Rector of Donaghmoyne, Co. Monaghan in 1820. While it predates the Great Famines of 1845 to 1847 by twenty five years, even then it’s development as a lace was promoted to alleviate the poverty in the area. [Read more…]

Irish Handmade Lace

March 22, 2021 by Forgotten Cotton

Irish handmade crochet lace collar — **Irish Handmade Crochet Lace Collar circa 1913**

The County Cork Industrial Association was a co-operative of lace makers based in the south of Ireland at the end of the 19th Century and beginning of the 20th century. It was part of the Irish Industries Association, an organisation founded by the Countess of Aberdeen, Ishbel Hamilton Gordon, in May 1886 as a co-operative movement. Lady Aberdeen was the Vicereine of Ireland from 1886 to 1887 and 1906 to 1915. As it’s patroness, she was one of the driving forces behind the success of this organisation. [Read more…]

Making a cotton face mask to measure…

November 3, 2020 by Forgotten Cotton

After buying both fabric and disposable masks I still had issues with glasses fogging up and also generally with breathlessness. It was time to rethink.

Good tailoring requires darts to be made in the right places. So I tried using the same theory for a cotton mask.

I took two squares of soft, pure cotton fabric from one of our Forgotten Cotton duvet covers and stitched them together, inserting darts in the centre of the top of the mask to allow for “nose space”. Then I put in two darts on each side edge of the mask to reduce gaps at the side. Elastic hair ties worked really well for holding it in place at my ears, being nice and fine. I stitched the two bottom corners together to make it a snug fit under my chin leaving s small exit for breath to escape downwards.

When wearing, the mask is just long enough for the bottom of the mask to tuck into the neck of my coat. Combined with the snug fit, this allows the exhaled air to go down into the coat instead of up towards my glasses.
It also gives a little extra breathing space.

I hope someone finds this useful

Mary

What is the difference between regular cotton and Egyptian cotton sheets?

October 30, 2020 by Forgotten Cotton

There are different types of cotton plants which produce different types of lint fibre. The climate also affects how well the plants do. Most cotton fabric in the world is from a short staple cotton. This means that its’ fibres are up to 3/4 in (1.5 cm) long. It is harder to spin but can be softer. Medium staple cotton is between 3/4in to 1.25in long and is considered a higher grade of cotton. However long staple cotton, which is 1.25in to 2.5in, is the most expensive and is a more scarce resource. It is usually reserved for high end products which usually means high priced products!

Historically Egyptian Cotton had a long staple fibre which gave a sturdy but fine silky thread. It’s reputation as a high quality product dates back to the late 19th century. Recently the Egyptian government has produced a trademark which can only be used on Egyptian Cotton products. this should reduce the confusion about what is and what is not Egyptian Cotton. However, it also needs to be born in mind that in recent times the cotton harvest has become more varied in Egypt. Not all Egyptian Cotton harvested today is the long staple variety that created the reputation of those finer Egyptian Cotton sheets. So when choosing your bed linen be sure to check out the feel of the fabric rather than just accepting what it says on the label.

I hope you enjoy our selection of 100% soft cotton duvet cover sets.

Thank you for reading this

Mary

What is cotton?

June 10, 2020 by Forgotten Cotton

Where does cotton come from?

The 100% cotton that we use in our duvet covers is a natural fabric and brings with it many benefits. The background to the fabric, we think, also makes a good story.

The short version of the story of cotton is that cotton is a natural fabric made from the lint fibres produced by the cotton plant to protect its seeds. The lint is a fluffy white type substance which appears after the plant has flowered. These cotton buds are then picked, either by hand or machine, put through a gin machine to clean out impurities, put in large bales which are sold on international markets. The purchasers of these bales spin the cotton into a yarn. The yarn is then woven into fabric either on its own or mixed with different types of yarn for different fabrics end products.

Where does cotton come from?

Most cotton comes from warmer parts of countries such as America, India and China, but also from parts of Africa, South America and Australia. So cotton starts out as an agricultural product, the cotton plant, that’s grown globally.

What are the different types of cotton?

The different types of cotton are Island Cotton, West Indies Island Cotton, Pima Cotton, Egyptian Cotton and regular cotton. The most common type of cotton available is the regular cotton with Pima Cotton and Egyptian Cotton being considered a finer, smoother grade of fabric. Island Cotton and West Indies Cotton are considered superior then to all the other types of cotton.

While the history is fascinating, the morst important thing is how it looks and how it feels and if it is what you like.

I hope you enjoy our selection of 100% cotton duvet covers and sets!

Mary